Meetings in Deshnoke

I never imagined that a trip to see a temple of holy rats would be so rewarding. 30 km south of Bikaner lies the town of Deshnok, a featureless town in terms of tourist attractions on the desert's outskirts... featureless except for the Karni Mata Temple- a holy shrine dedicated to the Karni Mata Goddess, and thousands of her faithfull devotees... rats. This place is ridiculous- and awesome, naturally. I was swindled outside even before entering by a guy who demanded $2 to watch my shoes for 10 minutes- he handed me a janky locker coin to validate his position. I said I only have 20 rupees (~50 cents) and he was fine with that too. So I left my shoes with him, thinking that 50 cents is cheap to secure the safety of my shoes, and, barefoot, walked into the temple. The rats are everywhere- crawling up the banisters, along the handrails, in the cracks, drinking milk offered by temple volunteers, shitting all over the place- if I ever was concerned about the Plague... but I figured that pilgrims come here everyday in droves- there must be some part of the Karni Mata that brings health and sanitation.
I only stayed for about 15 minutes- my feet, completely out of my control, steered me back to my thick wool socks and waterless hand sanitizer. I'm happy I saw it, happy my shoes were still there, and can't imagine myself trekking out of my way back to this temple again.
But something else would definitely bring me back to this little desert town- I met a family of 3 who are truly special. Inviting me into their home for tea, I was welcomed, fed, engaged and foretold. I don't know their names, and we got through on meager Hindi and butchered English- but very little is lost in translation when thoughts are so pure and people are so kind. Graciousness just emanated- drawing you in and leaving you completely content. We spoke about America, family, caste, religion and schooling. Money, wealth, privilege and travels. Never once was an accusatory word uttered, a judgemental note hummed- humble and good, these people took care of me. The father took a look at my hand and made some interesting comments about marriage, my mind and my family. After a full meal and two cups of chai, I was on my way. I left my Peace Mantle scarf with them, confident that they will naturally allow their own kindness to seep into the fibers. Goodness is found in random alleys, behind unexpected doors, and in simple houses. Traveling to these unmarked places keeps you optimistic- a smile that keeps you moving.

A full moon over India
Rising quickly steeped in cloud
Behind a veil of the deepest blue
Obscured by the sky in which it lives
You're a gentle Son Sister Moon
Keeping lit what is most beautiful
And as you fade the land is lost
An empty sky makes all go blind
But as I come around the bend
I blink
And see your celestial crown
Again