This country is electric- it pulses with its own voltage, hums to its own frequency. And you can feel it always- and see it manifest everywhere. Like I've said before, this is a country of opposites, contrasts and contradictions. I think the polarity is what makes each side so exciting, and the collective so irresistable. The old and new- walking from the Barclay's ATM to the shadow of a 16th century Moghul tomb. You cannot help but acknowledge the presence of both- such a difference, inhabiting the same street... a street that has changed, but one we share with distant figures with distant purposes. The history is thrilling and humbling- it adds mystery and awe to a place with both familiarity (KFC) and foreigness.
Walking down the street tonight, I was lured to a side alley by chimming bells and women singing- a religious festival of some sort happening, as far as I was concerned, randomly. But there's a purpose behind all affairs- not know is part of the intrigue. Standing witness is the enjoyment. The walls were heavily decorated with colorful flowers, ribbons, bows and banners. The miniature effigies of Hindu dieties stood tucked away in their wall nooks, covered in colors and swimming in incense smoke and candlelight. The small room radiated- living- brought to life by people and custom that have been developing for thousands of years.
You feel the energy of this place wherever you go. There is an inherent motivation in this culture- a pride and enthusiasm that I have not encountered before. Speaking in contrasts- within this country of tradition, change is taking place. Women (younger) are starting to put back the sari and don denim (though not a majority- still young girls wear flashy, but conservative, multi-colored veils and robes made of the most exquisite fabric- jeweled out and decorated with anything that sparkles). Western ways are finding their way in- but not at the expense of anything truly Indian. These people seem rooted- willing to pick and choose what works within their own independent and self-reliant way of living- and easily avoiding what doesn't. It hustles and shoves, dances and sings, creates and ruins, chants and prays, eats and sleeps. Even the silence here, however rare and relaxing, feels loaded with substance and meaning.
These are the impressions of a nascent Hindustani wanderer.
Friday, January 11, 2008
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