A Different Religion

I never before have had the opportunity to spend so much time as a foreigner in such a religious land. Everywhere else I have traveled, the West as it happens, does not wear its spirituality on its sleeve. Here is quite different- it dictates schedules, controls eating habits, influences dress, commands respect, and creates identity. Hinduism and Islam live side by side here, in almost equal numbers- under very different codes. Both seem to be equally zealous in their own ways- the Hindus with their multi-colored dieties that are pictured on both sidewalk shrines and 2008 wall calenders, and the Muslims who are led to pray 5 times a day by a very loud and public devotional song played from minarets all over the city.
However, it's the personal exposure to orthodox lives that have really started to make me think about the meaning of conservative religious thought, the world it creates, and my place within. A friend of mine here is a devout Muslim- following, to the best of his ability, the laws set forth by the Quran. Prayer, food, conduct, attitude, routine. In our conversations I have started to see just how different people can be when religion is involved. Every answer he has comes from the Quran- the words of the Holy Mohammed. Every thing he does is justified by text- he quotes prayer constantly. I brought dates for dessert one evening, since they provided dinner, and he said sweets are bad... according to the Quran.
Now I can't say whether it's right or wrong, good or bad, extreme or pious. I can only say that it is very different from my own experience. But it can prove challenging in discussion- and resolution often follows mere exhaustion. The hardest pit to swallow for me is, in my opinion, the absence of original thinking. I can see this in all religions- laws are set out for people to follow. They are clear, straight-forward, and all lead to some kind of reward. But it can engender conformity and unoriginality- life lived like everyone else, in hopes of the same outcome. There are many things that "aren't right, aren't good." What about the things that ARE right and good- do we spend too much time focusing on what to avoid, for fear of some divine judgement? Shouldn't we be enjoying this life, trusting our own abilities to choose what is right and live a truly pious life?
I am a believer in greater things- we create the most beautiful buildings, sculptures, paintings, and artwork for our own notion of what is divine- it does move our hands in remarkable ways. I can see how it can be twisted though- and often, this leads to such sadness. I have yet to find my way- but i'm learning a lot.
I had the privilege of attending an ancient and beautiful religious tradition that is carried out by one of the more appealing groups of devotees- the sufis. My basic and incomplete understanding of this sect places them as Islamic mystics who rebelled against the strictness of orthodox Islam about 800 years ago. They crave music, relish dancing, dine on poetry, and sing with insatiable energy. They believe in personal communion with holiness and, in effect, lead amazing lives. Quwwali is devotional singing that sufi "monks" perform every friday at the temple of their chosen guru- the men sing in a large group, feeding off each other's voices- rising and falling in unplanned rhythms and currents- one leads while the others follow- they join together- the leader softens while another fills the void. The music fills the room completely- paeans and odes to a person who led a life that inspires others to be better human beings. Their voices are truly electrifying- in a different language, for an unknown host. In my opinion, this is religion lived and followed- divine and encompassing, friendly and engaging, moving and connected to the past, our present, and a shared future- a dynamic way to live and think- original and inspired.